In Mexico, whenever anyone asked where my sister Lee and her kids were from she always said Alta California. This delighted Mexicans, who probably think all Americans believe there is only one California, the U. S. state. In fact there are two others, Baja California and Baja California Sur, both Mexican states located in the Baja California peninsula. Mexicali is the administrative center of Baja California, to the north, and La Paz is the administrative center of Baja California Sur.
At the La Pinta inn in Catavina my sister ran into a Mexican woman who had lived in Los Angeles but had moved back because she didn't have "the right papers" and didn't feel good about it. My sister remarked on how unfortunate it was that papers could keep the Californias apart. "I know God meant us to be together," the woman said, "but something has gone wrong with it." "Maybe we'll all be one California again," my sister suggested. "I think it will happen," the woman said, without much conviction.
The woman seemed a bit puzzled about why someone from Alta California would choose to visit the poorer Californias to the south. "Because it's so beautiful," my sister said, " and the people are so wonderful." The woman nodded dubiously.
I suppose it's not surprising that the Mexicans' envy of American prosperity should cause them to be defensive about their own country, but I don't think money is the root of the issue. It's more about children and the future. Mexicans worship children -- their eyes light up with almost supernatural joy at the sight of niños, even gringo niños. The poorest of Mexicans will introduce you to their children as though presenting movie stars. I think when they head north, to endure the humiliations and hardships of life in El Norte, it's not to get flat-screen TVs for themselves but a better future for their kids.
The poverty of Mexico, at least in Baja California, south of the tourist zone, rarely seems ugly or degrading -- the everyday culture of the nation is rich and humane. But it's so often frozen where it is -- economic progress is coming but coming slowly. Looking into the eyes of their niños, many Mexicans may feel that don't have time to wait for it.
They may not realize how much they stand to lose up north. The idea of making grueling sacrifices for one's children is losing currency in America, and many Americans no longer believe that their children will have better lives than they've had. The ragged Mexican man walking miles through the desert country of the borderlands to get a back-breaking, low-paying job in the United States probably has a picture of some children in his pocket. If you're tempted to fear and despise him, think of that. He may have more to give us than we have to give him.
For previous Baja California trip reports, go here.
[Photos © 2007 Harry Rossi]