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View Article  FROM THE ARCHIVES: REPORT FROM THE BEACH, 30 AUGUST 1998


Yesterday at sunset two large Golden Retrievers ran down onto the beach with their owner and proceeded instantly to two spots in the sand, as though they were prearranged, and began digging furiously.  They didn't stop as long as I watched them.  The holes just got bigger and deeper. Occasionally the dogs would pause, step back and bark into the holes.  There was nothing in the holes.


This was almost as strange as a couple in their thirties I saw a few days ago, strolling along the shore.  The man had one arm around his lady companion -- in the other he carried a golf club, a metal driver.



Every now and then he would stop, disengage, address an imaginary golf ball in the sand and "drive" it into the surf.  Then he would continue on.

Some fantastic act of defiance -- like Cuchulain attacking the breakers with his broadsword?  A man who cares far too much about his golf swing?

When we know what the dogs were digging for we may know the answers to these questions, and many others besides.  Mysteries of the beach revealed . . .
View Article  FROM THE ARCHIVES: REPORT FROM THE BEACH, 24 AUGUST 1998


Today, Cotty Chubb and I drove up to the marina in the man-made harbor at Santa Barbara and rented a small twenty-foot day sailer. We had to answer a simple questionnaire about sailing. The only question I knew the right answer to was which buoys are conical (red) and which are cylindrical (green). Cotty got this one wrong but all the others right, so we were qualified to operate the vessel.


We cast off and went out onto the ocean.



A slight breeze took us down the coast as far as the Biltmore Hotel in Montecito, where Cotty was staying, then the wind freshened considerably and sped us back, rails almost to the water, spray in our faces and elsewhere. (Fortunately, being an old sea dog, I had wrapped my wallet in a zip-loc sandwich bag.)



From the water, there is nothing visible of Santa Barbara that could not date from the Forties -- it must be what Los Angeles looked like back then. Lines of palms along the curving shore drive and promenade, exactly like Nice, Spanish-style buildings climbing the hills beyond to the point at which the mountains rise very suddenly and sharply.



A seal appeared dead ahead of us, diving and resurfacing -- dove just as we came up to him and reappeared in our wake. He looked at us quizzically as we proceeded along, as though to say, "How did those guys pass the sailing test?"

Still, we raced back, at the end, with flying colors, exhilarated after two hours at sea. Twenty buck an hour. "In a world where a plate of pasta can cost twenty dollars," said Cotty, "this is a bargain."



It was -- the mental equivalent of two days of rest. Because there is only so far you can head up into the wind . . . if it blows against you you have to tack -- and this is the shortest route you can take, even if it looks like nothing but zigzagging on the chart.

Because there is no appeal to the ocean, you and all your problems are quite irrelevant to its whims. Because everything you get from it is a gift, which you don't have the power to repay.



We went swimming in the surf afterwards, and I felt a kind of preposterous cordiality with the waves.
View Article  FROM THE ARCHIVES: REPORT FROM THE BEACH, 18 AUGUST 1998


The Ventura County Fair is over, the ferris wheel is gone. Yesterday a workman died from a fall in the course of dismantling it. The accident was attributed to the mist.
View Article  FROM THE ARCHIVES: REPORT FROM THE BEACH, 17 AUGUST 1998

                                                                                                    [Image by W. L. Warner]

Yesterday evening a deep coastal cloudbank was driving in across the whole horizon, eating up the headlands beyond the Ventura County Fairgrounds. It was the last night of the fair and the lights of the Ferris wheel glowed spookily in the mist, miles away. Wild rays of sunlight, like banners, seemed to flutter over the headlands at the edge of the cloud bank.

The sun, a bright red viscous disc, appeared through the mists just before it disappeared into the ocean.

These sorts of phenomena turn the blank landscapes of the sea and sky into theatrical spaces, which seem both awesome and manageable -- a place one might act in, given the appropriate role, mythological and ritualistic. Conditions also in which gods might step down into our world.

["Freedom Bulletin" No. 1 -- no more posts until Congress solves the credit crisis!]]
View Article  FROM THE ARCHIVES: REPORT FROM THE BEACH, 9 AUGUST 1998

bestplacefields.jpg

For almost five years I rented a small studio apartment behind a garage in Ventura, California, half a block from the beach. My principle residence was still New York City, but I needed to spend part of the year in California, for professional reasons.  I ended up in Ventura because I wanted to be near the ocean, I wanted to be within striking distance of Los Angeles, for business meetings and visits to friends and to my sister and her family there, and I wanted to be near Ojai, where a few other close friends lived. I triangulated those geographical objectives on a map and Ventura was the only logical choice.

I sent out irregular reports to friends about Ventura -- mostly meditations on place, a record of my exploration of the town and an attempt to create a myth about it for myself, as we always create myths about the places we live.

Here's the first of those reports, from 9 August 1998:


The beach at the end of my street isn't wide. At high tide the waves lap up against the embankment of rocks designed to keep them from the houses lined up like books on a shelf, facing the ocean.

Sitting on one of these rocks at sunset I can look south and see the breakwater and the masts of Ventura Harbor, basically a man-made marina. North I can see the coastline for a few miles, curving inland in front of the city of Ventura then back out again to a headland of tall hills.

There is often a lot of coastal mist at sunset. Sometimes the tops of the hills at the headland are covered in it. Sometimes the whole beach is shrouded and it's hard to make out a surf-fisher fifty yards away. All the permutations of the mist make for strange and shifting effects of the light when the sun goes down.

The water I look out at is the Santa Barbara Channel, running between the mainland and the Channel Islands, which so far have always been hidden by the mist.

The waves at the beach are not large or long but there are always surfers here. They wait out beyond the breakers, sitting still on their boards, sometimes for twenty minutes at a time, hoping for a good wave. They remind me of ducks then. Usually when a wave comes they are up and down in seconds. I think this must be an amateur or novice surfer's beach.

Still, for those few seconds, riding upright on their boards, the surfers look bitchin', tuned into something awesome.

The ocean.