PARIS: DOUBLE VISION — THE GRAND VÉFOUR UNDERGROUND, PART TWO

Today, Coralie Chappat takes mardecortesbaja readers into the heart of the Grand Véfour restaurant in Paris — the underground kitchen.  It looks so spotless it’s hard to imagine that food is actually prepared in these spaces, but it is, as future reports will affirm.  Note, too, the reference photos posted above the work counters, ensuring that the presentation of the dishes will conform to the chef’s original conceptions.  Coralie writes:

Les lourds plafonds bas et l’espace réduit se déploient en trois
souterrains donnant à l’ensemble, l’esthétique du sous-marin.  Les
lieux pour lesquels l’absence d’effluves me surprend, me sont décrits
avec la précision requise: la chambre froide:

. . . le couloir des desserts:

. . . le coin des mets chauds:

À chaque espace est assignée une tâche singulière, mais je ne retiens qu’un ensemble de carrelages et de plans de travail en acier inoxydable, qui font effet de négatif photo aux images culinaires du Grand Véfour.  Mon regard lisse les surfaces, parcourt les renfoncements, s’incruste dans les moindres recoins, pendant que mon enthousiasme se mue en une interrogation nimbée de mystère.  J’en imagine le fonctionnement pareil à un mécanisme d’horlogerie.



Aucun indice, pas la moindre évidence ou trace sur la manière dont ces
petits miracles s’accomplissent.  Une sensation s’éprouve néanmoins.
De ce laboratoire au laborieux quotidien où la fonction se lit beauté,
se dégagent des inclinaisons altruistes inspirant le respect.


Arrivée au terme du temps qui m’est imparti ; il n’y a pas l’ombre d’un
doute. C’est bien de magie qu’il s’agit.

[Photos © 2009 Coralie Chappat]

HAVE YOURSELF A MERRY LITTLE CHRISTMAS — IN THE HEART

Bob Dylan’s Christmas In the Heart, track by track . . .

Finally Dylan comes up against a song with a precedent he can’t really improve upon or add much to.  Judy Garland’s recording of “Have Yourself A Merry Little Christmas”, done for the soundtrack of Meet Me In St. Louis, is the definitive version of the song, treading the line between the lyric’s sadness and its hopefulness with sublime delicacy.

It’s only her soundtrack version that rules, though — the recording she made for the song’s commercial release on Decca is very fine but not quite as moving.  This was true of many of her movie songs, which she really “acted” on the MGM recording stage, then performed in a more neutral style for Decca.

Dylan’s version is very fine, too.  He sings it tenderly — but somehow he misses the melancholy, half-panicked undertow of Garland’s soundtrack recording.  Only on the line “until then we’ll have to muddle through somehow” does he suggest that things might be worse than he’s letting on elsewhere in the song.


                                                                                        [Image © 2009 Drew Friedman]

Sinatra, on his similarly fine recording, also misses the full measure of melancholy that Garland conveys — though like Dylan he has his moments.  When he sings “so have yourself a merry little Christmas now” you can feel a sense of doubt and resignation that gets to the song’s core.

Garland is aided greatly on the soundtrack recording by Conrad Salinger’s subtle but deeply expressive arrangement, which brilliantly evokes the melancholy mode without hitting you over the head with it.  This allows Garland her own subtlety in interpreting the song — you feel its sadness without quite being conscious of it, at least on a first hearing.  On subsequent hearings you realize that Garland’s character in the film is not just trying to reassure her younger sister with the sweet song, she’s trying to reassure herself — and not quite succeeding.

Garland’s is one of the greatest vocal performances of all time — to say that Sinatra and Dylan almost give her a run for her money is high enough  praise for any singer.

Back to the Christmas In the Heart track list page.

PARIS: DOUBLE VISION — THE GRAND VÉFOUR UNDERGROUND, PART ONE

The venerable Grand Véfour restaurant in Paris is located in a colonnade at the edge of the Palais Royal garden, above.  The entrance, below, opens onto a magical space for dining, but below this space is the heart of the Grand Véfour — penetrated by Coralie Chappat on a recent visit.  Here is the first part of her report on her adventures underground:



Si les kamis sont les divinités ou esprits qui s'attachent au Japon,
aux objets autant qu'aux lieux sacrés, et que les elfes habitent les
lieux souterrains ; ces touchantes créatures devraient bien être
perceptibles d'une quelconque façon?  Aussi je pensais qu'en visitant
l'antre du Grand Véfour, la magie se livrerait à moi et que je
comprendrais dès lors comment ces petits miracles qui conquièrent tous
nos sens, surgissent comme par enchantement, ne pouvant relever que de
la seule dextérité humaine.  Après m'être ennoblie des mets les plus
fascinants, j'obtiens par faveur la visite des lieux sacrés.



Je déguste un caramel mou et une dernière mignardise, lorsque le maître
d'hôtel me conduit par le petit escalier rond qui s'enfonce sous
terre.  Plus je descends, plus je pénètre l'épaisseur du secret.

Next . . . the mysteries of the kitchen revealed!

O, COME, ALL YE FAITHFUL (ADESTE FIDELES) — IN THE HEART

Bob Dylan’s Christmas In the Heart, track by track . . .

Now we come to another of the classic carols on the album, which, as I’ve written before, “have a different kind of joy than the upbeat pop numbers —
almost triumphal.  Dylan sings the first verse of ‘Adeste Fideles’ in
Latin, punching out the words like a preacher on fire with the
unimpeachable authority of the good news he’s delivering.  Now that
Pavarotti has moved on, is there anybody left but Bob who can sing
Latin like he means it?”

Pavarotti, by the way, does a stunning version of this song on his great Christmas album O Holy Night.  There, Pavarotti summons the world to worship, in tones meant to ring out from one end of the globe to the other.  Dylan, by contrast, seems to be addressing a small band of stragglers at the back of beyond.  He sings the name of Christ as though you might not have heard it before, stretching it out into two syllables (verging on three.)  He doesn’t sing “O come let us adore him” as it’s ever been sung before — the “O” is more of a cross between “Aww” and “Ahh”, as though his own heart were being pierced by the exhortation.

The stragglers are not alone, however — Dylan’s back-up girl group chimes in sweetly at the end, addressing “all ye citizens of Heaven above” . . . the seraphim and cherubim who are accompanying the rag-tag pilgrims on their impromptu journey to a little stable somewhere.

Dylan’s version of “Adeste Fideles” is the greatest version of this song that ever has been, and probably ever will be, done.

Back to the Christmas In the Heart track list page.

PASTOR RICK RECANTS

After my exasperated post about Rick Warren's initial unwillingness to condemn the proposed Ugandan laws prescribing imprisonment, and in some cases the death penalty, for gay people, I feel I must report that Pastor Rick has had second thoughts and has written a letter to Ugandan pastors urging them to speak out against such laws.



As with the Lutheran Church's belated apology for its founder's vile and nauseating anti-Semitism, and the Southern Baptist Convention's belated apology for its sect's enthusiastic support of slavery, and the Catholic Church's belated (and still rather half-hearted) apology for conspiring in the sexual abuse of children, I guess one can say, “Better late than never.”



Perhaps one could also say that getting browbeaten by history or bad publicity or common decency into adopting the most fundamental teachings of Jesus is a curious kind of witness for Christians, so many of whom seem to have a special genius for identifying the most vulnerable and oppressed members of the societies they inhabit and adding to their oppression by every means within their earthly power.

What's up with that, Pastor Rick?

THE CHRISTMAS BLUES — IN THE HEART

Bob Dylan’s Christmas In the Heart, track by track . . .

This song is a bit of a mind-bender.  It’s an ersatz, easy-listening, Tin Pan Alley blues — Dean Martin sang the classic version.  Dylan sings it with a combination of Dino’s nonchalance and the rough vocal directness of a real bluesman.

It’s like hearing Charlie Patton sing “Blues In the Night” in a Las Vegas lounge backed by the Count Basie Orchestra of the Fifties.

It doesn’t have the strong emotional impact of some songs on the album but it’s a lot of fun — and it fills in a few tesserae of the musical mosaic that is Christmas In the Heart.

Back to the Christmas In the Heart track list page.

PARIS: DOUBLE VISION — THE GRAND VÉFOUR AS THEATER, PART TWO

The tour of the Grand Véfour restaurant, Paris, seen as theater continues — in notes and photographs by Coralie Chappat:

Le reflet pourpre des banquettes fait office de rideau de velours
étoffant de sa chaleur rassurante les baignoires qui se multiplient en un clin d’oeil.

La somptuosité absorbe tout passage d’être et s’évapore nulle part, dans la multitude des dorures et des ornementations géométriques.  Apparaître-disparaître au gré des
improvisations.  Le lieu divisé en compartiments fait effet de coffre magique des prestidigitateurs.

Dans la rupture avec l’extérieur, l’hôte devient l’espace scénique d’une architecture onirique d’où émanent des effluves enchanteresques.



Ce petit espace magique est à lui tout seul, un monde de fluidité lascive.

See Part One of this report here.

LITTLE DRUMMER BOY — IN THE HEART

Bob Dylan’s Christmas In the Heart, track by track . . .

“The Little Drummer Boy” was one of my least favorite Christmas songs — until I heard Dylan’s version of it.  It’s so sweetly and tenderly sung.  It’s about a musician’s gift to the Prince Of Peace, and maybe it got to Dylan on that level, resonating in a purely personal way.  Time goes backwards and forwards in Dylan’s version.  The line “I am a poor boy, too” now harks back to Dylan’s own “Po’ Boy”, and there’s also the echo of “for Christmas buy her a drum” from “She Belongs To Me”.  Dylan’s songs draw from every area of America’s musical heritage, and on this album of covers he takes the gifts he rescued from the past back to where he found them, rescuing new gifts in the process.

There’s something spooky about the whole album — a sense that Dylan is floating through our culture on multiple levels, summoning whatever he needs to enrich the clichés of Christmas music, to reconnect us with its roots, in history and in faith.

On one level, “The Little Drummer Boy” is a shameless appeal to sentiment.  But Dylan asks, “What if we took the sentiment seriously, as an honest appeal to the heart?”  The answer is tears.

Back to the Christmas In the Heart track list page.

PARIS: DOUBLE VISION — THE GRAND VÉFOUR AS THEATER, PART ONE

The first part of a tour of the Grand Véfour restaurant, Paris, seen as a theatrical setting, in photographs with notes by Coralie Chappat — from the “dressing room” of the ladies’ toilettes (above) to the stage set where the drama will unfold . . .

Dans la loge bas de plafond, se soignent les derniers détails avant le
lever de rideau.

Le lieu se contemple pareil à un écrin où l’on serre amoureusement les
bijoux.

Dans leur existence autonome à l’instar du Palais des Mirages
du Musée Grévin, les miroirs incrustés dans le plafond où les lustres
surgissent du sol carrelé, sont autant d’ouvertures se déployant en
déclinaisons à l’infini.

L’aventure se poursuit dans les galeries de
ce Petit Trianon qui se donne à souhait, l’espace d’une présence et
sort tout droit d’Alice au pays des merveilles.

See Part Two of  this report here.

[Photographs © 2009 Coralie Chappat]

I’LL BE HOME FOR CHRISTMAS — IN THE HEART

Bob Dylan’s Christmas In the Heart, track by track . . .

One wag reviewing this album said that Dylan’s “I’ll Be Home For Christmas” comes off as more of a threat than a promise.  Dylan does sound a bit like like the irascible old uncle who’s been invited to Christmas dinner but that everyone is hoping won’t show up, because he always creeps people out.

But the performance takes on another dimension if you remember the provenance of the song.  Bing Crosby recorded the hit version of it in 1943, when legions of young American men with thousand-yard stares were hunkering down in foxholes in Italy or on remote Pacific islands, or training for the invasion of Europe that everyone knew would have to be made eventually.

Many of these men knew they wouldn’t be home for Christmas, except in their dreams, and might not be home for Christmas ever again.  It summed up what they were thinking — in the heart — and broke the hearts of their loved ones back in the States.

Today, the song doesn’t have this resonance — it’s just a wistful, sentimental reverie about a family gathering.  Dylan brings it back to what it originally was, a matter of life and death.

Listen to it with the context of 1943 in mind, which the retro arrangement helps you to do — listen to the weariness and edge of hopelessness in Dylan’s voice . . . and it will break your heart, too.

Perhaps it will also remind you that the context of 1943 is not so different from our own right now, and so incline your thoughts to the legions of young American men and women in harm’s way in Afghanistan this year who won’t be home for Christmas, and might not be home for Christmas . . . ever again.

Back to the Christmas In the Heart track list page.

HARK THE HERALD ANGELS SING — IN THE HEART

Bob Dylan’s Christmas In the Heart, track by track . . .

Dylan’s vocal on this classic carol starts out softly.  Note the difference in the way he sings the word “king” in the first line here from the way he spits it out on “Do You Hear What I Hear”, when he’s speaking in the voice of a shepherd boy chastising pomp.  He’s talking about a different kind of king now, a king of mercy mild.  But then he comes to “joyful all ye nations rise” . . . there’s a little pause before “rise” and Dylan’s voice soars (roughly) on the word.  It becomes a command.

Back to the Christmas In the Heart track list page.


PARIS METRO: AN APPARITION OUT OF TIME

A strange vision, reported (and photographed) by Coralie Chappat:

Il est tôt le matin, tandis que je m'engouffre dans la station de métro
Franklin Roosevelt.  Soudainement à ma gauche, je me sens comme
aspirée, mon attention requise par un mouvement intense d'énergie.



Un
massif trou noir marque son envergure, dans un déplacement effleurant à
peine le sol.  Il semble bondir plutôt que monter les escaliers.  Son
passage indiffère,
ne suscitant aucune réaction.  A la manière de
l'esprit, il traverse la réalité sans s'attarder.



D'un geste naturel,
je tire de ma poche, mon appareil photo pour saisir la trace dans mon
objectif de ce que je ressens sans voir.  Je m'accroche à son sillage
mais il s'évanouit au bout du couloir.  C'est fini.  Il a disparu.  Je
monte dans un wagon de ma rame
et tandis que je vérifie sa présence fugace dans mes images numériques,
mon regard se tourne mécaniquement vers le quai d'en face.




La station de métro Franklin Roosevelt dans un silence apocalyptique,
dépouillée de sa chair, semblable à l'Écorché de Houdon, s'est vidée de
sa masse humaine, privée de temporalité.


  

Le père a
ressurgit, comme une anomalie dans la modélisation de
l'espace temps, signant de son sceau, le versant existentiel du lieu. 
Je l'observe sans retenue.  Il couvre sa tête, ouvre son bréviaire,
s'enveloppe dans sa prière. 
Deux ultimes clichés clôturent notre
rencontre
.

 


Le poids de sa spatialité se fond en moi.

WINTER WONDERLAND — IN THE HEART

Bob Dylan’s Christmas In the Heart, track by track . . .

The lyrics to this song don’t have a lot of weight to them — they’re just an excuse for wintertime merriment.  Dylan tried for something similar, though more lyrical, in one of his own songs, “Winterlude” from New Morning.

It’s the musical arrangement which delights here — the incredibly cute and sexy girl voices backing Bob, with some sleek Andrews Sisters harmonies, set the mood of infectious cheer.  An anomalous steel guitar peeks in to the proceedings and is welcomed with open arms.  The number bops along happily and so does Bob — he seems to really enjoy the idea of the kiddies knocking the snowman down.  (Peggy Lee, in her version of the song, offered the same sort of deadpan approval of the mischief in question.)

When Bob says that he and his gal are going to “frolic and play the Eskimo way” it sounds as though it might involve more than rubbing noses by the fire, but by then I’m sure the kiddies would be fast asleep, thoroughly exhausted by their antic vandalism earlier in the day.

Back to the Christmas In the Heart track list page.

RICK WARREN AND THE CHURCH OF THE BLESSED PONTIUS PILATE

I agree with Barack Obama that this nation needs to have an open, civil, humane and respectful conversation about divisive cultural issues like gay marriage.  I would even agree that the conversation needs to include neurotic homophobes like Rick Warren, a man who went out of his way to hurt and shame homosexuals by comparing their behavior to pedophilia — the sexual exploitation of children, a form of rape.

Recently, Warren has refused to condemn the view of an African pastor he’s worked with who believes that gays should be put to death.  “I don’t take sides in matters like this,” Warren has said.  He doesn’t takes sides on the issue of putting people to death for their sexual orientation?  He has apparently joined the Church Of St. Pontius Pilate.  (We shouldn’t be too surprised — this is the most popular religious denomination on the face of the earth.)

It’s hard to imagine how a man like Warren could converse openly, civilly and respectfully with people he considers the moral equivalent of child molesters, of rapists, a man who refuses to condemn the murder of gays because they are gay.  But many people share Warren’s irrational and hysterical attitude to gays and lesbians and they are Americans, too.  Their attitude was formed either by social conditioning or by personal conflicts about their own sexuality, which aren’t crimes, after all . . . though perhaps not easily conducive to the kind of good-faith dialogue this nation needs.

The irrational nature of Warren’s views about gays and gay marriage is reflected in the intellectual dishonesty of his arguments, one of which is that all cultures and all religions have for five thousand years defined marriage as a union between a man and woman, whereas is fact many cultures and religions, including Judaism at one time, have also defined or do define marriage as a union between one man and several women.  Warren is strongly against polygamy, however.  It’s his prerogative, I guess, to pick and choose between historical precedents about the definition of marriage, but he certainly can’t claim any kind of intellectual integrity while doing so.

Warren is also a hypocrite.  He doesn’t allow “unrepentant” homosexuals to join his church, and used to state this policy very clearly on his church’s web site.  During the controversy over his role in Obama’s inauguration, however, this statement was removed from the web site.  The policy hasn’t changed, presumably — Warren just doesn’t want too many people to know about it.  Is it necessary to point out that if Jesus had directed his ministry only at the “repentant” he would have spent his whole life sitting on a rock somewhere waiting for the imaginary saints to show up to get the good word?

But even if neurotic, irrational and hypocritical folks like Warren have a place in the national conversation about homosexuality, why must they drown out the voices of the non-neurotic and honest opponents of gay marriage?  There are thousands of religious figures in America who oppose gay marriage but don’t feel compelled to insult and humiliate gays, or to stand silent when there’s talk of murdering them, while making the case for their opinion.  Doesn’t the media have some responsibility to present sane viewpoints on this subject, even as it reports on the lunacy of popular kooks like Warren?

In Christian theology, we are all guilty of putting Jesus to death — i. e. we’ve got nothing on P. Pilate — and are all relieved of the sin of this by Jesus’s sacrifice.  But even Pontius Pilate had the common decency, or perhaps just the good taste, not to show up among the disciples after the crucifixion, offering to buy them all a drink and let bygones be bygones — much less start a church in Jesus’s name.  The disciples would undoubtedly have been too shocked by this to be insulted — they would have more likely tried to get the poor guy some professional help. Rick Warren needs our love, like everyone else, but he also needs lots and lots of therapy and he needs to be recognized as the deranged and tragic figure he is.

It shouldn’t be forgotten that Warren does a lot — really a lot — of good charitable work around the world.  But is it too much to hope, in this Christmas season, that he might someday read the Gospels he pretends to preach — he must have a copy of them lying around somewhere — and find his heart touched by their message?  (Hint to Pastor Rick — the take-away from those books is neither “Crucify him!” nor “I wash my hands of him”.)